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ESPRESSO GUIDE 2010: SPOILERS ...

15/08/2009

Advances Espresso Restaurants Guide 2010, with Licia Vizzari Grain: Campania first

Enzo Vizzari (FotoPigna) Reflections on the sidelines of the article in the Republic: what is changing in Italy and why the South for once things are better Usual interview of August Licia on Republic of granule to the Editor of the Guides and Express Enzo Vizzari surprise by opening the newspaper: the first is Campania. Three new (The Mosaic in Ischia, Capo La Gala in Vico Equense, Naples The Commander ) over five worthy of mention (the others being Matthew Savini Tower of Milan and Martin of Obermarzoner Jasmin Chiusa in the province of Bolzano). Return to the old spaghetti with cheese and pepper, Heinz Beck (whose engine is fueled by his wife and mother-in-law of Sicily) as a plate lunch of the year and the year at Villa Crespi Antonino Cannavacciuolo. Guide 's ambition is to tell year after year, Italy that changes to the table. We in the past few years by the demands for an encore with the waiters going around with bowls around the tables anxious to requests to eat a single dish. It is not only the need for fewer calories you eat is just less. Although the thrust produced by the Anglo-Saxon colonization of the food chain where food is delicious as well as Dario Bressanini regular visitor, supported by massive investments by multinational corporations and advertising, fortunately our Italian food, even when they too, is fundamentally sound and good, especially in the South whose traditions are more impervious to fashion and the temptations of the moment. But the Italian style, when you exit the circle haute cuisine, lagging. In trouble mainly through the band, forced to competition from above and below, that of pre-cooked and food franchises. Even the guys who open gourmet restaurants to stand (The rest of the Angels in Salerno, the curling in Cava de 'Tirreni, The Poet Vesuvius Tower, South Quarto, Locanda Severino in Caggiano to quote the last openings) must be well away from the figures that would have asked for a few years ago. Moreover, thinking about it, 35 euro which we consider are the old 70,000 flights that I, although the son of middle-class, I saw through the telescope until when I started to work. Going out hunting in the company meant 140,000 pounds, almost prohibitive. The pizza then, with some initial, but also the style bistro like Mavian in the province of Benevento. This trend. And that we will always tell more, because whatever the form and manner, at the end the difference will make the quality and technique. And then catering and banquet value are the new frontier of income Gourmet. And here you can work the big shows like engages . In this context, the bell works. I must say, without arrogance, we all notice it especially when you go out region to the Centre-North because the first thing that jumps immediately to the palate of Naples is the consistency of values \u200b\u200bof the raw material, something that is understood immediately and thus does not require too much exercise being carried out as well as children. While the rest of the South, the matter is the same sublime (if there is fuck all right) but the difference remains, on average, abysmal service. The frame. I always say that the Neapolitans are to food such as French wine. Andrea Aprea, chef of the Commander Hotel in Naples Romeo But without going into too much respect, that is the tradition, training CIBIC Metro, the land resources and diversity, we must emphasize one thing well Vizzari says in the interview: there is now a third generation to work. Thing that they did not notice those who still pathetically divide between pro-and pro-Alfonsian Gennaro, to say nothing of ancient gourmet equate the quest for true soup married with that of the Holy Grail. Both resemble Pansa who discovered 60 years after the guerrilla violence, as it happens with the right cultural hegemony and political power, less the value of the historical events of the time. I mean, talk about the past that has no reverb on this. Not to mention the stories about the paid and unpaid accounts that Ku KluxKlan do so, gimo gimo gnu gnu, the cultural appeal of the arguments. Who runs the territory's people realize continuous openings, young chef who dare, a style, a varietal wine experts would say, unique and very distinctive just touched a raw material, the most fun, updating of technical Playing with the living tradition as a resource to innovate and not to suffer as a protocol. Let's be decomposed to pastiera Scarallo to understand the flight and all. Campania is the prince of the battle ground between rational and irrational. This dialectic harsh and difficult, capable of giving the strongest emotions as I always say Riccardo Cotarella, but also the greatest satisfaction, have meant that in recent months from its region which owes so much to Vizzari games are the worst filth . Enzo had the enviable strength to stand firm to the plate, refusing to understand how the major beneficiaries of the Italian food critics now suddenly talking about it as the empire of Satan in a broadcast designed to scantily clad waitresses and office workers frustrated. It's actually very easy to enter the mental mechanism of the attackers in the light of this analysis: popping on the scene, the third generation, some of the first and the second number, united by hatred first sight small hours, instead of governing the growth process they are afraid and have launched the usual technique to demonize and destroy. Splitters are well known amateurs useful idiots and alleged professional journalists who wrote the stuttering monkey scene. They thought of working for someone, actually worked against the Campania. Even this pathetic attitude, because the biological course of things is unstoppable, and if you were the first you have to be glad that there are around another hundred, of which perhaps 80 even more good. Because in the end, you were always the first on the historical level. Valid for food, for wine, throughout, it takes time to understand this rule and see the future as an opportunity even if you are no longer the only heroes? That's it. Cetara from tradition, the Commander of the extraordinary Andrea Aprea, Campania really lives his magic moment, the best ever. This testifies to the vitality of the associations (AIS, Slow Food, and many many others) and, let me, even the network. Finally in the last six years a school of writers and tasters "appeared on the scene, prepared as their peers young winemakers and chefs. A critical mass of real and virtual twenty guys who are working despite all the difficulties and contradictions of daily life and whom I respect deeply because they have the security we had granite for their age. The future can be written, as long as local administrators to stop the harass and rob whoever produces.

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Pontecagnano Faiano, Earth Wind

Via dello Statuto, 6 Pontecagnano Faiano 84093 (SA) Tel: 089/201320 - Fax: 089/200151 www.terradivento.it info@terradivento.it The Farm Land of Wind, seventy acres to 200 meters above sea level in the Park Picentini between the beautiful Gulf of Salerno and the rolling hills of Salerno, located in the territory Macchia Morese, which intervened on Agrarian Reform in the late 70's to release the untapped potential productivity of that land. In this area, the mild and sunny climate and limestone soils and clay wrap olive groves and vineyards. Great importance is given to an innovation-conscious craftsmanship in all phases of production. To ensure the original organoleptic characteristics of the milling is that the wine will begin shortly temporal distance from the collection of olives and grapes and everything is done by hand. Land of Wind, in fact, is not just wine. The company produces both Petrali Aglianico and Fiano Faiano, both IGT Colli di Salerno, also the extra virgin olive oil DOP Colline Salernitane Settebocche. This oil, derived from the cultivar Frantoio and Rotondella, the nose is fruity and has a yellow color with greenish green. The taste is fruity with medium bitterness and pungency. The true soul of this company is the development and promotion of the territory and local specialties. In the warm and friendly look of Robert Nicodemus, jointly owned with his wife Maria Luisa Zottola of the Land of Wind, there's all the past, present and future of this fact, you can catch all the enthusiasm and passion for their land. Even the name is the result of an emotion, this comes from an anecdote according to which a farmer, dragging the collected with his cart, raised a fuss leading "offshore wind" from the village. That offshore wind has become the Land of Wind, a reality where every day is renewed love for the land and is repeated but authentic and genuine hard work that produces products that taste as well as carry with them, enclosing a story speak of the homeland. But Earth Wind is not limited to the production of oil and wine, it also promotes the culture of food through the Scassaporta Tavern which is located at the center of the country. Here the family Nicodemus offers its customers not only oil and wine on its own production but also other products of nature organic farming. And 'here that is renewed every day, the strong bond between Nicodemus and Maria Luisa Roberto Zottola to its roots and this is borne out by the simple lines of the poem "' Mmiezzo Faiano" Felice Nicotera that greet visitors at the entrance.

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OIL: OLEIFICIO or "turret" BATTIPAGLIA

BATTIPAGLIA Serroni High Street, 29 Tel and fax 0828. 672615 www.oliotorretta.com . Info@oliotorretta.com La Sirena Golden Sorrento (1 st prize of the 2003 edition) is here in the hills between Battipaglia, Montecorvino Rovella Country, Serre and Eboli, shaped by centuries old olive trees that ooze oil from the first half of the 900. A fruity, clean, fresh scent of olive oil with herbs. An intriguing hints of artichoke and almond spicy tones. The cooperative was founded Tower in its current composition in 1998, 160 members growers, who in the 2003/2004 marketing year, 34,314 pounds of certified extra virgin olive oil DOP Colline Salernitane (recognition received three and a half years ago). The hectares of olive groves interested in the production batch of oil is about 90 certificate for a total of about 25000 plants grown in pots. The company is in the 'Aiab to grow organically. Today the old mill to press no longer exists. It 'been replaced by a system for grinding fact of innovative technologies. A staff of qualified technicians following the transformation process in oil and check rigorously that the parameters and timing of mixing, the temperature of the dough, the amount and temperature of the water used for extraction. Behind the results of recent years is certainly a commitment and passion of Mary Provence, taster panel head, technical quality as well as marketing executives of the holding. Extensive training at the ONAOO of Imperia, ten years professional experience and an active life in the field. Childhood living among the olive trees are the magical moments when the collection before the Pope over the production in 1974, was the grandfather to perform them. In '95 the machinery, tools of now, the time will be replaced with latest technologies and the old structure demolished. The cooperative was founded in '98 and it takes its name from the location where the plant is located Torretta. Further changes are made in '99. The company now is equipped to focus on food and recently embarked on educational projects with primary schools and secondary schools with final tasting of the visit. Soon the departure of an integrated course embrace art, history and education: a walk through the olive trees, to savor the fruits marvel at the paintings by emerging artists set over the branches of a single natural theater.

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OSTERIA: "THE COCK AND THE FOX" OSPIDALETTO D'ALPINOLO

Mugliatielli Irpinia in Ospedaletto dAlpinolo: Osteria del Gallo and Fox

With this sultry and the usual confusion of the cost may be a good idea to take refuge in a cool place, maybe on the mountain Montevergine in Irpinia, and look amazed columns convenient traffic traveling in the opposite direction without obstacles. The restaurant opened in the center of Ospedaletto dAlpinolo, copetari of the country, that is the manufacturer of nougat, has remade the look in the room, leaving behind the style a little 'folk to embrace the essence of minimalist most up to date. But the essence of the place of Marisa and Anthony Silvestro, in which working children Emily and David Clare, remains the same, the same: a simple proposal, tradition, presented in a clean and elegant. Reach is simple: the output is Avellino West, at the roundabout follow the signs for Mercogliano and then Ospedaletto: Fifteen minutes and reach the large open space with spectacular overlooks the valley where to park. One hundred meters walk, time to take a peek at the beautiful winery organized for the public, then the inn. soul were saying: traditional dishes of Irpinia and products without derailments if not in the final pot of cheese in Italy where it goes and of course in France. An earthy setting, with a few flicks such as marine pettola (fresh pasta) with anchovies, and of course all the different variations of cod, the only way to eat the fish of the generations gone by. During this period, presented with the walnuts, just to stay on the land. Instead of the usual battery of appetizers second kill, you can choose from three proposals (Parma summer terrine of chicken, sliced \u200b\u200bmeats from own production), then turns to the first (with metals ravioli, lasagna with vegetables and mushrooms, classic soup of escarole and beans). The strong point is still made up of seconds, each of which is worth the trip: rabbit wrapped, the strips of chicken with vegetables, sirloin with porcini and finally mugliatielli (entrails of lamb) baked, delicious, always in the paper. Finale with cheese or with a wide selection of desserts which dominates nougat obviously declined in many variations. Very interesting wine list with vintages in depth and just charged to run the winery. Bianchisti I suffer a bit 'because it is dominated by red. But, thank goodness, with a kitchen that allows us to drink it, for once.

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Vallo della Lucania, U 'Parlour

mass fraction. Via San Pietro Celestino, 66 Tel 0974.76210, 335.6221266 Closed Tuesdays. Holidays variables in winter Getting . Leave the Salerno-Reggio Battipaglia and continue to Vallo. After the center of town, climb the old road 18 for a couple of miles until the mass fraction. The restaurant is in the heart of the building, well marked. Cilento gastronomic success also depends on the emergence of new premises such as this, opened in early 2006 in the village Mass in an old convent that is waiting to be revived and restored. The decor is traditional, such as wood and stone, just as you would expect in a village inn, where you think more to take refuge from the cold rather than seeking the cool, but this is typical of the South who played his survival in a long and eternal struggle against the harsh climate beyond a oleography created recently. This is evident from traditional cooking, heavy and strong. The influence of Luke is announced by the sausages, excellent sopressata the nearby Gioi, Slow Food, and the dried sausage plus the cheese: mozzarella inevitable in the myrtle, that is in the myrtle, used to do as the shepherds of the mountain to which Gelbison holds on the fraction of the capital of Cilento. Unfortunately, the dairies have also launched one with buffalo milk, while the true myrtle is obtained by processing cow's milk. This is a very rich mozzarella and tasty product of animals raised in the semi that spend their days grazing in the hills and mountains. We must say that the cure for cheese is definitely a specialty of this place, not very common in local culture, because we noted a mixture of lecherous goat cheese and ricotta, a cheese podolico drowned in red wine, good pieces of cheese and then silane the ubiquitous mozzarella. The recovery of the plates is philological really live the recipe of the garden, dall'involtino eggplant with the meat to tomatoes au gratin, to zuccchine stuffed, fried zucchini flowers, asparagus omelettes. The first are usually preceded by soup, cicci married or pasta with beans, the ever-present and cavatielli fusilli with meat sauce, seasoned with the good the cavatielli ciurilli. With a normal meat, grilled lamb, goat, veal, pork ribs with the pappacelle, then take off again with mugliatielli (gnummariddi in Lucania), or the kid's gut stuffed and roasted, the insides of the boar and fried pork. A delight of my favorites that enhances the palate capable of loving biodiversity and flavors created before the advent of soft and morally harmful baby products from the multinationals. Homemade cakes and biscuits, among which the typical honey biscuits for the finale. The coffee is served with the Neapolitan. The wine, after some initial uncertainty, there finally is moving exclusively on the great proposal Cilento rolling Cobellis, De Conciliis, Botti, Maffini. From the business account, we are about 25-30 €.

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RESTAURANT: "SEA BREEZE" PAESTUM

Paestum, Sea Breeze

Via F. Gregory Laura di Paestum www.brezzamarina.com always open, closed on Wednesday. Holidays in January Along the coast road leading to the temples of Paestum, tortured road for years and years from being ruined by urban planning that are wrong day to the ruins of Ancient Greece, at last beginning to be serious signs of recovery. Not only the killing of hundreds of houses abusive decided by the former mayor of Eboli Gerardo Rosania: the large hotels have refurbished with more attention to the environment, some old country house has been taken with due care of the materials and dairy farms have replaced sad counter fridge in the sixties and comfortable to visit stores. The restaurant's location plays a role in this general phase of revival, with more worthy of some proposed of note. Nearby dall'Ariston found this place an elegant and discreet. Sober colors, professional service (but could be more with a written menu, instead of recited vocals) and seafood cuisine exclusively. The appetizers offer simple recipes from the coast as the squid stuffed with zucchini and eggs, here with the addition of tomato, or a combination sea-land, as the warm salad of octopus and cuttlefish with raw mushrooms and lemon or, again, there reminder that we are at the gates of the Cilento, with anchovies' mbuttunato (filled) of provolone, breaded and fried. The proposal of main courses is a bit 'monotonous (paccheri the fish, lobster linguine, spaghetti with clams) Genovese and tuna, fish stew, and not only long maceration onions, disappoint. To continue, the catch of the day with baked potatoes (very good), or grilled over fried inevitable. In closing, traditional Neapolitan baba, puff pastry with whipped cream puddings, fresh almonds and pistachios, or, more soberly good lemon sorbet. Small wine list but balanced with good regional wines and charged more than honest. Count on 30 €.

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restaurant "La Pergola" Paestum

Paestum, La Pergola

Via Magna Grecia, a Tel 0828.723377 Open for lunch and dinner closed Monday, never summer If you happen to cross the plain of the Sele and stop fascinated by the expanse of artichokes or intrigued by the slow hard work of buffaloes can decide to let your thoughts go to the sea of \u200b\u200bAgropoli, even more beautiful in winter, admission of the Cilento coast, or to make a stop to the temples of Paestum where to tell stones of this beautiful land will be ancient and timeless silence. But if you want to find all these beautiful things on a plate - at a stroke, but very very slow pace - Then you arrive in Via Magna Grecia, in Capaccio, and stop in the inn. To welcome a beautiful and lovely wife, sommelier and pastry sorceress with her two jewels: Adriano in the room and John in the kitchen. A rustic but very comfortable, even more if the fireplace is lit. Welcome, a bruschetta with tomato sauce and buffalo ricotta in a cloud with a drop of lemon marmalade. The paper menu - like wine - it soon becomes clear, is written by those who love with determination and passion of their own territory. Fish is one of the sea of \u200b\u200bthe Cilento, the only buffalo meat, as well as cheese, vegetables, and between a top priority for artichokes Paestum. Too little? Absolutely not. It 's amazing those plots, combinations and meetings can be combined with these resources. Just look at the list of appetizers: artichoke parmigiana, stuffed eggplant Cilento served with a sauce of tomato almost perfect in its simplicity, puréed chickpeas Cicerale with shrimp and toasted, rustic with buffalo mozzarella and artichokes, cuttlefish and artichoke salad , borage cutlet stuffed with goat cheese and provolone. Among the main courses, beautiful selection of fresh pastas such as ravioli or cavatelli classic prawn and octopus as well as noodles with mussels and Calamari with cheese and ricotta cheese. For the second choice of sea and land, all local as you said, nothing is invented, but only experienced with a little 'fantasy and through the wisdom of country cooking. The cod in batter is prepared with onions, octopus served on creamed potatoes, filet of yellowtail with a light sauce and shrimp with extra virgin olive oil (DOP Cilento, of course). The buffalo meat is cooked - it must be said - in many different ways, with tomatoes and mozzarella for rags, with balsamic vinegar or the sirloin mushrooms, polenta stew. In the selection of wines from Campania proper attention to small producers and some good national label. It closes in style with well executed and beautifully presented desserts, such as pecan pie or tart with buffalo ricotta with hot chocolate. Account about 30 €. Getting Leave the Salerno-Reggio Battipagliae to take direction Paestum. Exit at Capaccio, turn right after the underpass at the intersection, turn right and continue for two hundred meters. The restaurant is on the left.