Advances Espresso Restaurants Guide 2010, with Licia Vizzari Grain: Campania first | 15/08/2009
| Reflections on the sidelines of the article in the Republic: what is changing in Italy and why the South for once things are better Usual interview of August Licia on Republic of granule to the Editor of the Guides and Express Enzo Vizzari surprise by opening the newspaper: the first is Campania. Three new (The Mosaic in Ischia, Capo La Gala in Vico Equense, Naples The Commander ) over five worthy of mention (the others being Matthew Savini Tower of Milan and Martin of Obermarzoner Jasmin Chiusa in the province of Bolzano). Return to the old spaghetti with cheese and pepper, Heinz Beck (whose engine is fueled by his wife and mother-in-law of Sicily) as a plate lunch of the year and the year at Villa Crespi Antonino Cannavacciuolo. Guide 's ambition is to tell year after year, Italy that changes to the table. We in the past few years by the demands for an encore with the waiters going around with bowls around the tables anxious to requests to eat a single dish. It is not only the need for fewer calories you eat is just less. Although the thrust produced by the Anglo-Saxon colonization of the food chain where food is delicious as well as Dario Bressanini regular visitor, supported by massive investments by multinational corporations and advertising, fortunately our Italian food, even when they too, is fundamentally sound and good, especially in the South whose traditions are more impervious to fashion and the temptations of the moment. But the Italian style, when you exit the circle haute cuisine, lagging. In trouble mainly through the band, forced to competition from above and below, that of pre-cooked and food franchises. Even the guys who open gourmet restaurants to stand (The rest of the Angels in Salerno, the curling in Cava de 'Tirreni, The Poet Vesuvius Tower, South Quarto, Locanda Severino in Caggiano to quote the last openings) must be well away from the figures that would have asked for a few years ago. Moreover, thinking about it, 35 euro which we consider are the old 70,000 flights that I, although the son of middle-class, I saw through the telescope until when I started to work. Going out hunting in the company meant 140,000 pounds, almost prohibitive. In this context, the bell works. I must say, without arrogance, we all notice it especially when you go out region to the Centre-North because the first thing that jumps immediately to the palate of Naples is the consistency of values \u200b\u200bof the raw material, something that is understood immediately and thus does not require too much exercise being carried out as well as children. While the rest of the South, the matter is the same sublime (if there is fuck all right) but the difference remains, on average, abysmal service. The frame. I always say that the Neapolitans are to food such as French wine. But without going into too much respect, that is the tradition, training CIBIC Metro, the land resources and diversity, we must emphasize one thing well Vizzari says in the interview: there is now a third generation to work. Thing that they did not notice those who still pathetically divide between pro-and pro-Alfonsian Gennaro, to say nothing of ancient gourmet equate the quest for true soup married with that of the Holy Grail. Both resemble Pansa who discovered 60 years after the guerrilla violence, as it happens with the right cultural hegemony and political power, less the value of the historical events of the time. I mean, talk about the past that has no reverb on this. Who runs the territory's people realize continuous openings, young chef who dare, a style, a varietal wine experts would say, unique and very distinctive just touched a raw material, the most fun, updating of technical Playing with the living tradition as a resource to innovate and not to suffer as a protocol. Let's be decomposed to pastiera Scarallo to understand the flight and all. Campania is the prince of the battle ground between rational and irrational. This dialectic harsh and difficult, capable of giving the strongest emotions as I always say Riccardo Cotarella, but also the greatest satisfaction, have meant that in recent months from its region which owes so much to Vizzari games are the worst filth . That's it. Cetara from tradition, the Commander of the extraordinary Andrea Aprea, Campania really lives his magic moment, the best ever. This testifies to the vitality of the associations (AIS, Slow Food, and many many others) and, let me, even the network. Finally in the last six years a school of writers and tasters "appeared on the scene, prepared as their peers young winemakers and chefs. A critical mass of real and virtual twenty guys who are working despite all the difficulties and contradictions of daily life and whom I respect deeply because they have the security we had granite for their age. The future can be written, as long as local administrators to stop the harass and rob whoever produces.
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